How are waves formed in the ocean?
by 
Shane Sullivan
ANSWERS: 6
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Wind
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Wind provides the energy to set waves in motion. This energy principle works the same way waves are created if you snap one end of a rope in the floor. An energy shockwave will create several waves until the other end. The size of the wave is determined by: -The speed of the wind -The distance of the wind blowing over the water -The lenght of time the wind is blowing The top of the wave is the "crest", the bottom is the "trough", the difference between crest and trough is the "height". The distance from one crest to another is the "wave-lenght". Once a wave height reaches a seventh of the wave-lenght it falls down making white caps. Just for general knowledge: "Tsunamis" (huge waves) are not created by wind, but by underwater earthquakes.
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Waves are formed in three ways, gravity, wind and earthquakes. Gravity is responsible for the high and low tides. High tide is when the water is the deepest and low tide is when the water is most shallow. The rise and fall of the water level causes waves to form. The second cause of waves is wind. The wind can be light and only cause small waves. These waves can be as tiny as ripples in the water. Young children can practice making waves by blowing on a bowl full of water. Wind can also cause very large waves that make being in the water very dangerous. Even large ships don‘t want to be caught in a storm with huge waves. The type of wave wind causes depends on how hard the wind is blowing, how long the wind blows and how much ocean the wind blows over. Lastly, waves can be caused by earthquakes. Earthquakes are the result of two of the earth’s plates rubbing together. Just as we stumble or fall during an earthquake, water also reacts to the power force. The earthquake pushes the water away from the epicenter of the quake and can cause some pretty large waves.
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No other answers seams to have mentioned the fact that the moon can also cause waves. The gravity of the moon affects the oceans tides, create the high and low tide, depending on where the moon is. Factoid#19- Many people wish to add a thirteenth month and give it 28 days. The 28 extra days come from the extra days from each month with days over 28. February will still get the extra day every 4 years.
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Most waves are formed by the wind. As wave join together they grow bigger. The size of waves is controlled by: - the strength of the wind - the duration of the wind - the distance of open water(the fetch)
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There are many sources of waves in any body of water. 1. Wind. The single largest factor as the source of waves. Wind blowing across the surface of the water causes turbulence at the interface between them. It creates ripples. Once a wave is created, the wind, if persistent, adds energy to the wave. 2. Any movement of the earth in or near the water. So an earthquake or mudslide will displace water. That displacement of water turns into a wave. These waves can be terribly large and destructive. 3. Any object that enters the water will cause a wave, which may then be amplified by the wind. A piece of ice (an iceberg) that calves into the ocean will cause a wave. 4. In some bodies of water, a significant source of waves is boat wash, created by frequent boat traffic. This man-made wave action can be very significant in a restricted area. 5. Tides, created from the gravitational interaction between the earth and moon as the moon progresses around the earth, will cause water to flow from one place to another. This flow of water will generate waves.
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Юсуп Хизиров
Tides is the result of the rotation of the Earth and whirlpools Comments: University of Cambridge Forum https://www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=73127.0
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