ANSWERS: 2
  • I assume you mean the fan on the radiator. I wonder why you want to do this. Anyway, in principle you can run a wire from any terminal you can find that is hot when the engine is running to the + hot connection/wire on the fan, and it should work. This assumes the existing ground will work, which it should, AND that the place you are tying it into can carry the amps. Safer: run a wire from the hot terminal on the fan thru the firewall, to a new swithch, to an in-line fuse, and back thru the firewall to + on the battery. Use wire that is not too light, and a 20 amp fuse, max. You should be able to see on the fuse box the original fuse amps. Do all this at your own risk, of couse. I have done such to get something working in a crunch, but you need to be careful of overloading, fire, getting wires in fan belts, shocking/buring yourself (I've done this(got wristwatch metal band across hotg&ground)), etc.
  • Just unplug the wires on the temperature fan switch, and put a jumper wire between the two. That will turn your cooling fan on when you start the car, and shut it off when you turn the key to off. Another advantage to this is that the wiring is still running through the relay, so you shouldn't overload anything and your not running new wires. Also, the A/C circuit will still function as it should/did.

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